Camperization is now at one of the most difficult stages. Figuring out how to deal with the electrical system in a camper van is a difficult task. We will be adding a lot of features to our van during this phase, which is difficult because we will be working with electrical materials. The risks are low because we will be working with small parts.
With the exception of certain situations where you don’t know about the situation it is important to get help from a professional.
Even so, if you spend a lot of time studying and carefully following the step-by-step instructions, you can still finish the project taking your own sweet time. In this article, I will talk about the basic resources and important steps that go into installing a complete electrical system in a camper.
Types of electrical equipment.
In the first place, you need to figure out what kind of voltage you will need for your camper’s electricity: 12 volts or 220 volts, for example. Let’s take a look at the pros and cons of each one.
12V camper electrical installation
The basic electrical installation of most camper vans is 12V, and it is perfect to connect all of the items that can be:
- Lights
- Cigarette lighterandUSB sockets
- Water Pump
- Boiler
- Fridge
- A fan and a vent for the skylight
220V electrical installation.
When we want to do a 220V installation we need the following things:
- Plugs
- External power socket
- Watertight heater
- The microwave, oven, mixer, and dryer are all there.
In this case, we’ll need a power inverter that can convert 12V to 220V.
Installation costs and complexity will go up because of this, but the benefits outweigh the downsides. With 220V, there are a lot of things that can be connected to it. But you should also know that the gadgets charge a lot faster than with 12V.
What does a complete electrical installation consist of?
In my camper, I have both 12V and 220V electricity thanks to a well-designed electrical system. This means I can run all of the accessories, appliances, and lights in our camper with both 12V and 220V electricity.
So, I will also be able to charge the auxiliary battery while I am moving thanks to the solar panels. As a bonus, the external 220V connector will let us get power at any campground, which is very useful.
A complete electrical installation, in other words, will allow us to run our camper van without electricity.
What are the materials required for electrical installation?
Following that, I will provide you with a list of the accessories that will be required to attain the level of energy independence that you are aiming for.
Auxiliary battery.
It will be necessary to connect an extra battery (or more) to the vehicle’s original battery, with the number of batteries depending on how long the vehicle needs to be able to go and what specific needs it has.
We have three choices when it comes to the type of auxiliary battery we choose.
Acid Batteries – They are the cheapest, but they should not be used in a camper because they emit toxic fumes and make hydrogen during the process of installing them (it is explosive). They can’t be thrown over, but if the container’s seal is broken, they can leak. There is no other way to use this type of battery. You must build a sealed chamber with a gas outlet that can be seen from the outside.
AGM Batteries – It is common to say that AGM batteries should be chosen. At a reasonable price, they have all of the features that you need, can withstand a lot of charging and discharging cycles, and can be charged at voltages higher than 12V, to name a few things. They don’t make gas, they don’t spill liquids, and they don’t need any maintenance to work properly. A lot of things are good about it.
Gel Batteries – Gel batteries are a type of battery that can be recharged. They are the most expensive things on the market. They have a longer service life than AGMs, can charge and discharge many times, and can withstand high temperatures. Some, on the other hand, don’t work with voltages higher than 12V. This must be taken into account when designing the charging system.
Another thing to think about when you choose auxiliary batteries is the amperage, which is the battery’s capacity in amps. You will be more or less free depending on how many amps you have.
Relay or Booster
It is an important part of the process of installing electricity system. It’s important to use a “battery separator” when you connect the main battery to the secondary battery through wiring because it does two very important things.
You can charge the secondary battery with the help of the main battery. When we drive, the generator of my van recharges the secondary battery, which we then use to charge the auxiliary battery as well.
When the van comes to a complete stop, it only draws power from the auxiliary battery, which keeps the main battery from running out.
A relay or a booster: Which is better?
Relay – In terms of cost, this is the cheapest and most popular option out there. There are two types: manual and automated, both of which work. Automated ones are better because their own sensor decides whether or not electricity can flow between two batteries when their voltages reach 12.5V. If you use the manual ones then you need to connect it otherwise it will not charge.
Booster – A more expensive option, but one that is still more efficient in terms of how quickly you can get where you need to go. It not only regulates the charge of the secondary battery, but it also stops the secondary battery from ageing too quickly.
12V to 220V inverter / converter.
If you are going to undertake a full electrical installation, you will need 220V plugs and the installation of specific devices that do not operate at 12V. This equipment is in charge of changing your vehicle’s 12V to 220V. There are many varieties and power levels, and some even include a built-in charger and regulator function.
The latter are highly recommended since they control the charge from the solar panels and convert the 220V electricity from the exterior connection to 12V. There are connections between the auxiliary battery, the exterior socket, and the solar panels: everything passes through and is output at 12V or 220V depending on the destination and demands.
Inverters can be either pure wave or rectified wave. Although more expensive, pure wave is always recommended for a complete electrical installation since it permits the connection of motorized equipment such as mixers, fans, or dryers (depending on the Ah supported).
The rectified wave ones are suitable for connecting items that do not have a motor, such as lights, computers, televisions, or music players. It all depends on the individual’s requirements.
Solar panels
Solar panels are the best way to give campers power and independence while they’re on the move. They are available in a variety of styles and materials. Let’s look at how similar and different they are.
Rigid – An aluminium profile is used to hold the rigid plate in place. This makes the plate heavier and takes up more space. For every 3 cm of plate thickness, it is important to leave an extra 3 cm gap between the plate and the sheet of the vehicle’s roof to let air in. This makes them more visible and also makes the vehicle much taller. They are more energy efficient (they use more energy) and more durable than flexible ones. They are also more durable than flexible ones.
Flexible – When the silicone sticks to the metal and there isn’t any ventilation under it, the performance is lower when there is too much heat. They can be a little bent to fit the curve of the ceiling. The fact that they are more expensive doesn’t mean that they aren’t as good at working at high temperatures.
Monocrystalline – There are some materials that can withstand overheating better than others. It may be able to absorb more radiation with less surface area, but they aren’t as good at that. They are good for places that are more moderate and have a lot of clouds.
Polycrystalline – They can handle a lot of heat and are very effective when they are in the sun for a long time.
Solar technology is always changing, but even though there are a lot of different types of solar panels, they all work very well. As I always say, high-quality results are important, so it’s good to choose based on the needs of the case.
Step-by-step camper electrical installation
Before installing electrical parts
Pre-installing the electrical wiring before paneling and insulating the van, and with the camper inside design fully planned, is excellent. In this manner, the wires will remain behind the paneling, taking up no internal space and having no effect on the van’s looks.
- To begin, determine the position of the auxiliary battery, electrical appliances, and other equipment such as a refrigerator, water pump, skylight, light points, plugs, solar panels, control panels, and heating, among others. Any extras that we wish to add can be done afterwards, as long as the cable is visible.
- If you opt to undertake electrical pre-installation, you must place the wires in corrugated tubes (macaroni) so that they can be readily changed if necessary, and you will connect them to the van sheet with flanges. You must leave the appropriate cables at each place and make the correct holes in each board during paneling so that the cable may exit.
- The section of the wiring that runs outside (or, if we decide that all of the wires are exterior), will be shielded by visible gutters.
- The hole in the plate for the external 220V power outlet must also be considered during these preparatory steps. Similarly, if the chosen solar panels are rigid, they must be screwed in and the appropriate hole for cable entrance left before paneling the roof.
Tips for electrical installation
As we have said before, there may be a lot of differences between vans when it comes to the electrical installation process. In each case, the correct scheme will have to be used.
- According to me it is important to do a specific investigation for each case and, in some cases, to ask or delegate to electrical specialists. Each electrical installation is unique because of the devices you have, the accessories you are going to connect, how you are going to use them, and, in some cases, the electrical pre-installation that the vehicle already has.
- To get schematics and installation advice, you can do a simple search on the internet. These can be very useful. In the furgovw.com forum, hundreds of van drivers talk about these issues with each other. There are very detailed discussions about how to install an auxiliary battery and how to install consumables, among many other things.
- Before you start working on the project, you should always ask for a professional to give it the green signal.
- Having said that, there are some general things to keep in mind when doing any kind of electrical work:
- The battery is the last thing to be connected. It is your job to make sure that the battery is not plugged in while you are working and handling cords.
- When you choose the cable segment, you will take into account all of the factors, such as the distance, voltage drop, intensity, and so on. So, if the cable is shorter, less energy is wasted on the way there.
- If you can figure out which service each wire is for because each fuse is marked, it’s good that each circuit is separate. As a result, if something goes wrong, you will be able to find and fix it quickly and without affecting the whole system.
- To make sure that the voltage, amps, and other specs for each accessory are correct, read the instructions and characteristics of each one.
- The fuses must be close to the auxiliary battery so that they don’t short out.
- It’s best to run one or two cords longer than you think you will need when you start setting up. When you add a service in the future, the cable won’t have to be moved outside of the building to do it.
